Complete Coating Guide: Material Selection and How-to

You have the option to use Polyaspartic 85 or Epoxy HP. Both deliver the same coverage rates, can be tinted to virtually any color, and work with vinyl chips or quartz broadcast. Both are viable DIY options when proper prep and application steps are followed.

Before doing anything, confirm all of the following:

• The concrete has cured for at least 30 days.
• The concrete is not permanently wet and has no chemical contaminants.
• You have access to a floor grinder. A shot blaster is also highly recommended.
• Everything is cleared from the surface and your car can stay out for 3–7 days.

Grinders and shot blasters are available at Home Depot, Herc Rentals, SunBelt Rentals, and United Rentals. Search “concrete floor grinder rental” locally. Choose a grinder that fits your home’s electrical capacity. If renting a shot blaster, also get the magnetic sweeper for stray beads.

Crack Repair (Optional but strongly recommended)

Skipping crack repair will likely result in a visible imperfection in the finished floor.

1. 1
   Use a hand grinder with a crack chase blade to open cracks wide enough to fill. The crack needs to be widened so sand can be packed in and surfaces are prepped for resin adhesion.
2. 2
   Sprinkle play sand into cracks with a putty knife. Do not pile sand above floor level — silica is harder than concrete and will create a protrusion when you grind later.
3. 3
   Mix a small batch of epoxy or polyaspartic (likely no more than a couple quarts total). Pour over sand-filled cracks, spread with putty knife. If resin rises above floor level, that’s fine — it grinds off easily.

Control Joints (Optional — style preference)

Filling joints creates a continuous look and eliminates places for dirt to collect. There’s risk in freeze-thaw climates — expansion/contraction can disturb the coating. Budget for an extra 3-quart kit of material.

1. 1
   Grind in and around joints (turbo disc for wider, crack chase blade for narrower). Vacuum out all dust.
2. 2
   Mix resin per instructions, then add sand until it reaches the resin level — the mix should flow but have body to it.
3. 3
   Pour slurry into joints to the surface. Use a putty knife to clean up and spread.

Floor Grinding & Final Prep

Target a concrete surface profile of CSP-2 or CSP-3. CSP-3 is preferred for professional-grade systems but typically requires a shot blaster in addition to the grinder. CSP-2 works for lighter coating thicknesses.

1. 1
   Grind until the floor feels like 60-grit sandpaper. Keep the shop vac connected for dust collection. Get as close to the edges as possible.
2. 2
   Use a hand grinder with a turbo disc on edges and foundation curbs you plan to coat.
3. 3
   For best results, follow grinding with a shot blaster. It fires tiny metal beads into the floor, knocking up embedded dust under suction — the cleanest possible prep.
4. 4
   If not shot blasting, vacuum the entire floor thoroughly. Any remaining dust compromises adhesion.
5. 5
   Apply heavy-duty masking tape at edges and rosin paper on any surfaces you’re not coating.

Step 1 Checklist

• Floor Grinder & Accessories
• Hand Grinder
• Turbo Disc
• Crack Chase Blade
• Putty Knife
• Shop Vacuum
• Heavy Duty Masking Tape
• Play Sand
• Epoxy HP or Polyaspartic 85
• Drill for Mixing
• Helix Mixer
• Measuring & Mixing Container

Moisture Testing

Tape a piece of clean, flat, clear plastic to the concrete with all edges sealed as airtight as possible. Let sit 12–24 hours, then check:

• No condensation or darkening: If the floor also passes the porosity check, skip the primer.
• Mild moisture / slight condensation: Use Walttools Essential Epoxy Primer or Polyaspartic 85 as a primer coat.
• Heavy moisture emission: Test via ASTM F-1869. Purchase a Vapor Transmission Test Kit from radonseal.com (SKU: 800). Formula: RATE = 24000 × (final weight − starting weight) ÷ (453.612 × area × hours). Over 3 lbs/1000 sqft/24 hrs requires a special vapor barrier epoxy. Under 3 = use standard primer.

Highly Porous Concrete

After grinding, if the surface looks like foam or swiss cheese with many open voids, use a primer. Without it, air trapped in voids rises into the base coat and creates bubbles that permanently mar the surface.

Applying the Primer

Coverage: 250–300 sq ft per gallon.

1. 1
   Mix Essential Epoxy Primer or Polyaspartic 85 in the proper ratio.
2. 2
   Put on spiked sandals before stepping on the floor.
3. 3
   Pour material in long ribbon rows evenly across each section.
4. 4
   Spread with a flexible window squeegee — very thin and even. The concrete should look slightly wet or darkened after application.

Step 2 Checklist

• Essential Epoxy Primer or Polyaspartic 85
• Window / Flat Squeegee
• Measuring & Mixing Container
• Drill for Mixing
• Helix Mixer
• Spike Sandals

The base coat is your primary color layer, applied tinted with RZ Tint then immediately followed by your vinyl chip or quartz broadcast. A second person makes large spaces significantly easier.

RZ Tint dosage: Two 6 oz. containers per 3 gallons of resin (4 oz/gal). Always add tint after mixing the resin.

Base Coat Coverage Rates

Applying the Base Coat

1. 1
   If a primer was applied, confirm it’s tack-free: press lightly — no pulling, no impression.
2. 2
   Mix at a 2A:1B ratio in manageable batches. Do not pre-mix everything — mixed resin in a bucket accelerates the reaction and makes it unusable.
3. 3
   Put on spiked sandals before stepping on the floor. Walk carefully — they’re slippery.
4. 4
   Pour material in long ribbon rows across each section. Do not dump in one pile.
5. 5
   Spread with a 1/8″ notched squeegee to even thickness, then backroll with a ¼” nap epoxy glide roller. Use color depth to gauge evenness — lighter = thinner coat.

Broadcast Media: Vinyl Chips vs. Quartz

Step 3 Checklist

• Epoxy HP or Polyaspartic 85
• RZ Tint
• Measuring & Mixing Container
• Drill for Mixing
• Helix Mixer
• 1/8″ Notched Squeegee
• ¼” Nap Epoxy Glide Roller
• Vinyl Chips or Quartz
• 5-Gallon Bucket (broadcast)
• Spiked Sandals

Before applying the topcoat, clean up broadcast media and repair any blemishes. Wait times before proceeding:

Scraping Excess Chips

1. 1
   Use a floor scraper to remove rogue chips and break off sharp protruding edges. We recommend the Kraft Steel Smoother (KR-GG608).
2. 2
   Keep the scraper at a shallow angle — steep approach can gouge the coating while it’s still relatively soft.
3. 3
   Vacuum the entire floor thoroughly after scraping.

Sweeping Excess Quartz

1. 1
   Sweep the floor to dislodge weakly bonded quartz granules. Don’t sweep too aggressively.
2. 2
   Vacuum the entire floor thoroughly. Loose quartz will cause imperfections in the topcoat.

Repairing Blemishes

1. 1
   Scan the floor for spots where chips or quartz is missing or was pulled up during scraping.
2. 2
   Mix a small amount of resin (RZ Tint not required). Use a brush to coat the bare spot, then sprinkle chips or quartz over it.
3. 3
   For small touch-ups, you can proceed without waiting for full cure as long as you’re careful not to disturb them in the next steps.

Step 4 Checklist

• Floor Scraper (Kraft KR-GG608)
• Broom
• Shop Vacuum
• Paint Brush
• Small amount of chips or quartz
• Resin (touch-ups)
• Measuring & Mixing Container
• Drill & Helix Mixer

The topcoat seals and protects the floor. You can do one or two layers depending on the finish and durability you want.

Topcoat Options

Coverage Rates — First Layer

Coverage Rates — Second Layer (also use for partial broadcast topcoats)

Application Process

1. 1
   Plan material quantities per section before starting. Write it down — you don’t want to be calculating mid-application.
2. 2
   Put on spiked sandals. Mix material and pour in long ribbon rows across each section.
3. 3
   Spread with a notched squeegee or 18″ floor applicator. Run the tool along the length of the ribbon for even distribution.
4. 4
   If using a squeegee, backroll with a ⅜” nap roller for even coverage.
5. 5
   Work section by section. Plan your exit — finish near a door. Disturbing partially gelled topcoat creates imperfections that won’t flow back level.
6. 6
   For stairs or curbs, use a hand roller or solvent-resistant brush. Keep thickness even — no sagging or dripping.

Step 5 Checklist

• AU 85, Polyaspartic 85, WBU M, or WBU G
• Measuring & Mixing Container
• Notched Squeegee or Floor Applicator
• ⅜” Nap Roller (backrolling)
• Drill for Mixing
• Helix Mixer
• Paint Brush (edges & stairs)
• Spiked Sandals