Epoxy Floor Coating Calculator

What is the difference between epoxy and polyaspartic floor coating?

Both are two-part resin systems that bond chemically to concrete — neither one is paint. The differences come down to cure time, UV stability, and working time. Epoxy HP has a longer working time on the concrete surface, making it more forgiving for first-time installers. But epoxy will yellow over time when exposed to UV light, which means it needs a polyaspartic or aliphatic urethane top coat to protect it in any space with natural light. Polyaspartic 85 sets up in 4–6 hours, doesn’t yellow, and has better abrasion and UV resistance built in. For most garage floor and residential applications, polyaspartic is the better base coat because it completes faster and doesn’t require a protective top coat to maintain its appearance. Epoxy is a strong choice for poured base coats in 2–3 day systems or for interior spaces with zero UV exposure.

What are the different types of concrete floor coating systems — and which is right for my space?

There are four main finish styles available on this page, each suited to different priorities.

Solid color — the simplest system. Two coats of tinted Polyaspartic 85 and you’re done. Best for workshops, utility rooms, basements, and any space where a clean, uniform background matters more than texture. A solid floor makes dropped hardware and small parts visible immediately, which is a practical advantage in working garages. No broadcast step, no scraping, no vacuuming.

Vinyl chip (flake) — the most popular DIY garage floor coating. A tinted base coat with 1/4″ vinyl chips broadcast into it creates a floor with excellent chip coverage, slip resistance, and a finish that hides tire marks, minor scuffs, and surface variation better than any other system. Can be done in 1 day with polyaspartic or 2–3 days with epoxy.

Quartz — harder, heavier, and more abrasion-resistant than vinyl chips. Quartz granules are broadcast at 1 lb per square foot and create a very rough, durable surface that holds up to heavy traffic and harsh conditions. More difficult to broadcast evenly than chips, but the result is the most durable decorative floor available.

Metallic — the most visually dramatic option. Tru Lustre Metallic Pigment is mixed into an epoxy base coat and worked into flowing patterns while the resin is wet. No two metallic floors look alike. Best for showrooms, home theaters, reception areas, and spaces where the floor is a design statement.

Do I need a primer coat?

It depends on your concrete. Primer is not always required — but it’s almost always the right call. A primer coat seals air pockets in the concrete that would otherwise rise into the base coat and create bubbles on the surface. On porous concrete (which visually resembles swiss cheese or foam after grinding), primer is essential. It also provides protection against minor moisture emission from the slab. The practical benefit beyond adhesion is coverage rate: a primed surface allows your base coat to cover 150–175 sq ft per gallon instead of 100 sq ft per gallon, which significantly reduces the total amount of base coat you need on larger floors. If your concrete is dense, has been recently ground, and shows no moisture, skipping primer is acceptable. If you have any doubt, add the primer — it’s inexpensive relative to the rest of the system and the insurance it provides is real.

What is the difference between vinyl chips and quartz broadcast?

Both are broadcast into a wet base coat and create decorative, slip-resistant floors — but they behave very differently in application and performance. Vinyl chips are larger, lighter, and flutter as they fall, which makes them easier to distribute in a natural random pattern. They’re the more beginner-friendly broadcast option and by far the most popular for DIY garage floors. Quartz granules are smaller, heavier, and fall in the exact direction you throw them, which means technique matters more — uneven throws can create visible streaks or blobs. Quartz creates a harder, rougher surface and requires 1 lb per square foot (significantly more material than chips), but the resulting floor is more resistant to abrasion and heavy traffic. Quartz is always a full broadcast. Vinyl chips can be full broadcast (covering the floor completely) or partial broadcast (a decorative scatter that leaves the tinted base coat showing through as part of the design).

How does RZ Tint work and how does color change the look of a floor?

RZ Tint is a concentrated pigment that mixes directly into polyaspartic or epoxy resin before application. On its own, both resins are clear — the tint is what gives the floor color. The dose varies by system: chip and quartz floors use 2 oz per gallon of base coat (lighter dose because chips cover most of the color anyway), solid color floors use 6 oz per gallon (heavier dose for full opacity with no chips hiding the base), and metallic systems use 4 oz per gallon added to the primer coat. The tint color creates the underlying tone of the floor — for chip and quartz floors, it shows through in the joints between broadcast pieces and along edges, which is what gives the floor its overall color impression. Choosing a tint that complements the broadcast color is as important as the broadcast choice itself. Cool gray tints under chip blends like Earl Grey or Neutral read as sophisticated and clean. Warm amber tints under Autumn or Pumpkin chips feel energetic and dynamic. Solid color floors in deep saturated tones like Emerald or Sapphire Blue can transform a raw garage or basement into a dramatically finished space.

What top coat should I use and do I need more than one layer?

The top coat is the final protective layer that determines long-term durability and sheen. AU 85 (Aliphatic Urethane) is the highest-performing option — it resists UV, abrasion, chemicals, and oil, goes on thicker without foaming, and has a longer working time that makes it easier to apply evenly. It’s the right choice for any floor that will see real use. Polyaspartic 85 is a strong UV-stable top coat with a faster 4–6 hour cure time — a good match if you’re using poly as your base coat and want to stay in the same product family. Epoxy HP as a top coat is only appropriate for indoor spaces with no natural light. WBU M is the only low-sheen (satin) option available — if you want a floor that doesn’t look like a mirror, WBU M is your choice. WBU G is the high-gloss water-based urethane alternative with excellent protection. For quartz floors, a single top coat layer is the standard — adding more layers starts to fill in the texture and reduces traction. For chip and quartz floors with heavy commercial use, or any time you want a satin finish, a second top coat layer adds meaningful additional protection.

How do I calculate how much epoxy or polyaspartic I need for my floor?

The calculator above handles this automatically once you select your floor type, base coat, primer choice, and floor size. But understanding the underlying numbers helps you verify the output and plan accurately. Coverage rates depend on three variables: the product, the system, and whether you used a primer coat. As a general reference — without primer, a polyaspartic or epoxy base coat on a chip floor covers 100 sq ft per gallon. With primer, that improves to 150 sq ft per gallon. Quartz floors cover 150 sq ft per gallon without primer and 175 with primer. Metallic base coats are applied thicker at 75 sq ft per gallon. Top coats cover more ground: 175 sq ft per gallon for chip floors, 125 sq ft per gallon for quartz, and 250–300 sq ft per gallon for metallic. These are planning estimates at 70°F and 50% humidity — porous or aggressively ground concrete will absorb more material. Always order slightly more than the calculated minimum.